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2021年11月20日 星期六

哥德堡群島(Göteborgs skärgård)的聯想

 

圖1: Hönö一隅 (photo by the author)


此文已先於Matters發表

因為某些私人因素,再加上疫情的緣故,整個博班生活在今年春天後進入一個奇怪的狀態 : 我必須到處尋找短租,不然就是得流浪投靠朋友或是沙發主。

在因緣際會之下,9月中的時候,我來到了瑞典第二大城哥德堡(Göteborg)。在我抵達的第一天,他就邀請我跟他以及他的朋友們,一起到哥德堡群島(Göteborgs skärgård)健行。哥德堡群島又分成南、北兩個部分,而我們當天是搭船到北哥德堡群島的Hönö,來展開這趟小旅行。

從港口步行到住宅區旁的「荒野」只有大概3公里不到; 沿途的風景,就是標準的恬靜臨海小鎮風光。

圖2: 前往健行區域的路上 (photo by the author)


進入健行的區域後,映入眼簾的便是瑞典西海岸著名的花崗岩岩岸地形。乍看之下,似乎是不怎麼崎嶇的地形。但事實上,在冰河經年累月的推擠之下,這裡的地貌超乎預期的破碎。整個區域盡是碎石以及大大小小的裂隙, 有些裂隙龐大到甚至可說是被峭壁圍繞的洞穴,而這些隙縫有時又被大量的植物給充滿。因此,儘管嚴格來說,這裡不能說是寸步難行之地,但各式各樣的障礙卻能使不熟悉的遊客,難以抵達眼中所欲求的目的地。

圖3: Hönö一隅 (photo by the author)


圖4: Hönö一隅 (photo by the author)


我們原本是打算走到海岸旁(有點類似圖4所顯示的遠處),親臨卡特加特海峽(Kattegatt)。但各式橫在眼前的懸崖以及叢生的植被使我們一直無法接近標的。最後,我們只能退而求其次,停留在看得到且走得到的岸邊。

圖5: Hönö一隅 (photo by the author)


圖6: Hönö一隅 (photo by the author)


真正的亂流,出現在回程時: 我們忘記是怎麼走過來的了。正如我先前所說的,這裡的地景實在太過破碎,因此不存在所謂的直線距離。雖然我們知道大方向在哪,但是手持手機GPS帶隊的人,卻越走越偏,最後甚至決定要下切有點高度的裂隙、穿越一片陌生的樹林。作為一個曾經上山下海進行實察的地理人(?),我的專業(?)直覺一直告訴我,我們一路都在犯錯。但我也沒有積極向大家說明我的看法,因為我認為9月中的溫度與日照長度,還不至於讓人陷入絕境。所以,我就眼睜睜地看著大家走進濕漉漉的林地裡。

所幸(?),我們想進入的林地就跟法貢森林一樣難以穿越 (茂密程度是圖7的數倍),而且GPS忽然失效,我們就決定回頭找一個高處觀察地形。終於,我們慢慢地修正方向,走出了迷宮。

圖7: Hönö一隅 (photo by the author)


或許是因為當下的心情使然,我很快就把這趟「驚魂記」與目前博班碰到的挑戰做連結,然後在IG上寫下這段文字: 「差點致命的地理實察,走錯一步就要花更大的力氣修正路線,還要跟日照時間賽跑,就跟人生一樣,覺得無奈。」

我覺得念博士班不見得是個錯誤,錯誤的是先前有一些事件沒有解決,或是先/後天形成的特質沒有修正。一路累積下來,造就了當前的困境,並使得博士班這項決定看起來變成了錯誤的一環。一直以來,我都知道這些癥結,但終究還是拖到了幽暗密林之前,才決定正視踏出改變的那一步。

所以,為何不找長租呢? 這尤其是某些德國沙發主的疑問…

因為找不到。作為一個經濟預算有限的男性非歐盟公民,在瘋狂競爭的德國租屋市場裡,需要極大的力氣與運氣來殺出一片天地。而百年大疫又讓這個情形更加複雜。當然,在這些客觀因素之外,也存在著一些主觀因素。譬如說,為了快速逃離父母、來到德國,我沒有做好長遠規劃,僅帶著A1-A2程度的德文就跑來。來到德國之後,被夾在研究與生活瑣事之間,再加上容易裹足不前的症頭沒解決 (對於瑞典生活的懷念算是這個心態的反應),系統性地語言學習無法被執行。在語言限制的情形下,加上疫情的衝期,找房與打工的機會愈加侷限,(然後NGO通常又忙碌又沒資源,導致訪談很難約),終於使得研究進度步入今日這步田地了。

每當我遇見新的沙發主,我就必須把我的困境從頭說一遍,每一次都是檢視自己的機會,同時也是接受他人論斷的場合。有些德國人在事後還會跟我道歉,因為他們覺得可能有點太過judgemental(某些德國人對於德語不佳的外國人,有強烈的「批判意識」XD)。不過我r某程度認同這樣的批評指教,因為他們指出了要在當地生活得相對舒服的可能條件之一 。但是,目前的狀況,已經不單只是語言的問題,而是整個人的問題了...

圖8: 脫困的路上 (photo by the author)


所以,現在的我,就是要控制自己不要進入森林,然後跨出豁然開朗的第一步。但,會不會,我其實已經在林子裡?

又或者說,我自己就是那片峭壁圍繞的樹林呢?

2021年1月1日 星期五

遺憾的追尋與遠眺




Stockholm, 2017

本文同時發表於Matters

有一個大學學弟,前前後後在歐洲待了將近7年。最近他在臉書上寫到,與剛來到歐洲的時光相比,現在他旅行的目的地與當初有很大的不同。雖然我不清楚是甚麼造就了他所謂的不同,但就自己的經驗來說,我也有類似的轉變。

2010年,第一次踏上歐洲,是因為要在瑞典隆德大學攻讀碩士。而之所以想要出國念書,除了短暫逃離父母的控制外,不外乎就是已經被其他人也講到爛的希望能多看看這個世界。其實這個體驗世界的想法,在一開始的碩士日子裡,並沒有強烈到覺得一定得執行,因為瑞典的一切依然是那樣的新鮮,晚夏初秋的景色更是清新澄澈到讓人足以忘卻所有的煩惱。然而,北國冬日的昏暗無光有點超出我的預期,再加上一些個人與環境因素,使自己無心也無力去融入瑞典社會,導致後來我總是想放長假到其他地方,哪裡都好,就是不要留在瑞典。還記得當時最常做的一件事,就是到某座公園的小山丘上,遠眺連結瑞典與丹麥的Øresund大橋,想像自己在不久的將來,就能跨越海峽到瑞典以外的世界放逐。秉持著這樣的想法(偏見),兩年的碩士時光,我鮮少在瑞典境內遊歷。一旦有機會進行較長時間的旅行,我總是跨越Øresund大橋,前往瑞典的南方。

畢業回到台灣一段時間後,我決定申請博班。諷刺的是,隆德以及其他瑞典的學校再度成為申請目標。我想這是因為,經過一些時日的沉澱與反省,我認為我當初的想法不夠成熟,導致我失去了不少踏出了解第一步的契機。所以我心想,若是能成功返回瑞典,不啻是給自己一個彌補過錯的機會。但由於我離開瑞典前,並未耕耘系上的人脈(這點對於瑞典博班的申請算是至關重要),再加上一些成本與其他人為因素,德國法蘭克福成了博班的落腳處。

Frankfurt, 2017


德國可說是我在瑞典求學階段,最喜愛的國家之一,喜歡到我研究所同學都知道(而且會翻白眼XD)的地步。因此,得以在德國生活一段時間,我算是非常開心的。但正如同瑞典的冬日,德國生活也存在著超乎我預期的現實面。當然這些其實都是一些可以克服的瑣事,有些甚至只能說運氣不好,不能全然指向某種霸權的運作。但正所謂「沒有比較,沒有傷害」,這些德國生活初期碰到的亂流,讓我意識到瑞典的優點(儘管現在可能也不一樣了)以及往日時光是那樣的自在美好。至此,不成熟心態的基因再度作祟,所有在德國的不愉快 - 不論多麼微小 - 都是那樣地讓人難以釋懷。而瑞典則由於空間與時間上的距離,使徒留的遺憾幻化出一種無以名狀的美感。

就這樣,如此諷刺地,我現在所慾求的旅行方向是北方。但自2017年初定居德國以來,我僅僅回瑞典兩次,一次是主動拜訪研究所同學們,另一次則是被邀請參加朋友的博士口試。除了經濟成本的考量(北歐真的很貴!),最主要還是因為我「理性地」深知,我即使回到了隆德,我也不能改變或是追尋回甚麼東西。另一方面,我依然「非理性地」想去相信,當年的美好是存在且可能以不同的形式復得的。這樣的拉扯,促成了某次衝動的跑去位於德國東北的Warnemünde,那是從德國搭巴士回北歐的兩條路線之一(另一個是經由Lübeck),在那裏我可以隔著無垠的波羅的海來追尋瑞典的氣息,但(表面上)又不會受到真實無情的打擊。這有點類似精神分析(e.g. 拉岡)所說的,有些幻想或是慾望,只能從遠處端詳,才顯得真實有意義; 一旦靠得太近,就會發現那是片撐不起任何美夢的荒蕪頹圮之地。

Warnemünde, 2019


如今來到德國即將邁入第四個年頭,隨著現實生活壓力的進逼,其實這樣的矛盾情緒被拋在後頭的時間也越來越多。當然,也是因為自己意識到,當年的事物。錯過就是錯過了,它們已然無法以任何形式重現; 與那片土地的連結,只得以在未來重新創造。但這樣的想法,是不是其實換湯不換藥呢,畢竟我依然無法逃出「北漂」的窠臼? 也許我真正該做的,是將眼光與思緒,放在即將到來的任何遠方,而不是那被(去除-)遺憾所狹窄界定的北方吧

2018年4月19日 星期四

Der Himmel über Schweden



當我在隆德念書的時候,有一個正在斯德哥爾摩交換的台大學弟,因為想來瑞典南部看看,所以跟我聯絡,希望能在我家當沙發客。後來我記得是接待了他兩天。之後我們再也沒有見過面,僅在臉書上更新對方的消息。

前一陣子,他在美國離開了這個世界。

自從我爸過世,我對於英年早逝這樣一件事情,總是無法接受,甚至是感到無比恐懼。也因此,這個僅僅只有兩天之緣的外系學弟之死,讓我非常焦慮地想知道他究竟發生了甚麼事情。家屬或許基於隱私以及對於往生者的尊重,並未透漏任何細節。所以我只能從底下他朋友的留言,來拼湊真相。

雖然他的朋友們沒有明說,但任何有心去了解的人,都會明白發生了甚麼事。在知道了這個可能的真相之後,有一種難以言喻的感受湧出心頭。那是一種出於意料之外的震撼,卻又參雜了些釋懷之感。

hej! 學弟,你知道嗎? 每當感到無力與憤怒的時候,我總是會試著去想起瑞典的天空以及海洋,因為對我來說那是一種冷冽卻又讓人安心的藍色,然後我似乎就又有了繼續遊戲人間的動力。

最後,希望你在另外一頭,能繼續實現你的夢想,並且守護你最親愛的家人,我在這邊也會好好加油,不讓自己的瑞典精神被德國人給擊垮(?)。

2016年7月11日 星期一

Guide



I really hope that foreign students could have the same help from the "host countries." lol. However, this is also the point made by some locals to oppose or deny refugees' access to the resources needed upon arrival.


"Why privilege this minority group over underprivileged from the local?" or "Why can they enjoy the things given that they don't pay the taxes at all."'

I think these points might neatly speak volumes about why non-EEU students have had to pay tuition fee since 2011 if they would like to study in Sweden.



I was so lucky that I got enrolled in 2010. But it's possible that I already became the unwanted foreigner that undermine the foundation of welfare system, as those asylum seekers have done.

2012年9月23日 星期日

I owe you an apology, Sweden.



It really got on my nerves if someone asked me about the lives in Sweden.


For the past two years I had been in pursuit of the master’s degree called Human Ecology in Lund University of Sweden. During this span of time, I studied and partied as other international students did. However, I also moved around. I had stayed in seven different places in Lund / Malmö, which was very rare to be seen among the things happening to students. Owing to the nomadic life style, I got few chances to dive into Swedish culture. Besides, the mates I lived with and the friends I got close to were nearly from non-Nordic countries. Namely, what I or we learned could be very superficial and stereotypical. Even though I attended cafe multilingual, where I got to know some nice Swedes, it was hardly found even only one piece of jigsaw to complete the picture.


Maybe language barrier made one of the obstacles. Because I didn’t plan to stay in Sweden after finishing the degree, Swedish class became so secondary; meanwhile, I was busy…and lazy as well, all these factors – or you may call them excuses – led to my illiteracy in Swedish. Language doesn’t guarantee that an outsider could be like the fish in the water forever and ever, but it at least paves the road – no matter how far it can actually reach – for a newcomer to step forward.


Emotion also played important roles in making my excuses. I would say that this was the Lucifer among others. In the beginning, the idyllic scenes of Skåne province as well as the tranquil of Lund did fresh my flesh which had been exhausted by the social ties and mainstream values back in my home country Taiwan. I could still recall how fragrant the air was when I opened the window of my first home I stay, which was located on 10th floor of a flat, enabling me to overlook the south of Lund. Even the opening chapter of snow – though a bit early at the time – didn’t render the coming difficulty winter foreseeable given that I was obsessed with the white would for the first time in my life.



The good days did not last long. The Nordic put on a cruel face when northern hemisphere moved closer mile by mile to the sun as it has done since the earth emerged. The endless darkness, accompanied by tones of falling snow breaking the record in years, was beyond the mental preparation I have made and transcending all the alarms I had got from my friends. The rural quietude ironically appeared as the once-excited drug that ended up enervating your body. No matter how hard I had tried, it was super difficult to uproot the melancholy planted deep inside.


This very first winter I experienced made me unreasonably critical when confronting any single unpleasant stuff; the accusation of racism in particular. For instance, one day before 2011 Valborg I was hit by an egg-like object thrown from a car passing by. It happened so transient that I didn’t know how many people were in the car, not to mention what they looked like. As I said that this happened when the crazy Valborg was coming, this could be done by someone who couldn’t wait and thus got drunk earlier than other Swedes have always done. In addition, the driver might come from Denmark or other member states of EU. Well, you may say that it was not so cynical attributing this event to racism since the possibility was there and it did cause uncomfortable reaction. OK, there were more. There was a lady in the supermarket across from Lund main station seemed to dislike checking the tag attached to every single apple, which meant that different tags referred to different prices. Under this situation, I didn’t always pay what I got. I perceived this as racism every time the same case happened. Furthermore, the other day I went to a cafe to read the literatures for my thesis. After I finished my drink, a waiter came to me and said that he felt sorry to ask me leave but only the customers who were going to have lunch would be served. I looked around the not-so-crowded space and found that I was the only one being asked to do so given that there were others who ordered drink only. And I also realized that I was the only Asian at that point while others were Swedish, or, at least white.

the Valborg in Lund, 2011


Both of these cases could have some reasons rather than racism. The lady might simply not enjoy her job, and perhaps the man in cafe went asking other customers to leave later when I was not present. However, I was too negative to look at the bright sides. Even the fantastic summer here couldn’t emancipate me from the prejudice built upon my subjectivity and shallow knowledge of this Nordic country. Under this condition, my words with regard to the lives in Sweden, or to the country Sweden, were relatively harsh. Every good part of Swedish life would lose its luster when my bitter experience loomed and then took over the stage.


After finishing my master’s degree, I went to London to take a break from academia. This trip manifested that the life in Lund eventually had come to an end, maybe temporarily, maybe for good. This was my second time being in London. I was still enchanted by its glamorousness and colorfulness. In my case, London is like the antithesis of Sweden. There are many things for sure that can easily disfigure London’s gorgeousness, such as the unpredictable weather and the crazy tourists springing from every corner of the city. Nevertheless, I am still obsessed with it. Every dark side of London would fade its gloom when my fantastic experience shined on the stage. In other words, one can love or hate a place with or without any reason.





How London was highly rated (by me) sometimes, only sometimes, made me want to examine how the life in Lund was underrated. The prejudice and complaints appeared to obscure every single piece of good memory. Was I going to leave Europe with so many unfair comments on Sweden? Did Sweden, or Lund, change me in any good way?


The other day, my friends and I were planning to go somewhere by bus. As soon as I got on the bus, I smiled and said hi to the driver. After a while, I found that I was the only passenger in that queue who had done this. At that moment I saw Sweden in me. In fact I don’t know if it was like an unwritten statute all over Sweden. At least people in Lund / Malmö do so, with heart or not. It was possible that this polite manner was simply a routine. Nevertheless, I still believe that six or seven out of ten times people conduct this with their thanks.





From this event onwards, the good parts of the past two years started to emerge, or, to be recalled; the deadline of paper which did not exist indeed, the F which can possibly be nominal, the men with baby trolleys, the space design which fully embodies gender equality, the second-handed store that can be seen everywhere…etc. All these things represented the alternatives I could have in my life, or served as the mirror which reflected what I can learn from and what I should cling to in order to change, or fight against, the main stream society in Taiwan. Of course all of these values were possibly my shallow observations as well, but at least I started to look at the surface which glowed in the Nordic sunshine.




I do apologize, Sweden. Well I still have to say that the winter is no doubt horrible. Nevertheless, I would like to say thank you for the company. I also appreciate the things you have taught me for the past two years (oh...less than two years since I went to so many places during the stay in Europe); I do change in a positive and subtle way, as you have always done when you stand out in front of the world. 



The Garden of the Women@奧爾斯多夫公墓(德國漢堡)

  圖1: The Garden of the Women (photo by the author) 此文已於 Matters 發表。 許多台灣人對於墳墓總是很忌諱,包括我在內。也因此,除非要探訪至親好友,通常沒有人會想在裡投或是周邊逗留。相反地,對我來說,歐洲的墓園則顯得不是...